2010 Mediterranean
August 22, 2010
Here it is mid-summer and Dale is already preparing for his "Trip of a Lifetime". We have perused shore excursions, dining experiences, watched CD's and are acting like beginner travelers. Our traveling co-horts, The Alsburys, (to be called Eileen and Don) and Jamie Kirkebo and Darcy Nelson are experienced travelers and are selecting the prefunction hotels in Nice and what fab restaurants we will be enjoying. It is so seldom to be traveling just for fun that I am really up for the experience.
A couple of days exploring the French Riveria and wondering how we got old so quickly! We travel on down the coast to Monte Carlo where we join Oceania Cruises and board ship. Then we begin moving east along the coast, down Italy, a couple of hops across the Adriatic and up the coast of Croatia finally ending in Venice after 2 glorious weeks of "Bits and Pieces".
Two days until we depart...bags are packed and tension is building. I have so much in the bag I may not be able to close it....but what about Florence and leather bags, belts, jackets etc....what about those red leather lace up shoes I was sorry I didn't buy when I was there last time...what about...what about...
MONTE CARLO Oct 29, 2010
Drive along the famous Grand Corniche with its stunning views of Monaco and the Old City; then stroll through this marvelous quarter and its pink Grimaldi Palace. And don't forget the Casino. Explore the wonderful old villages along the Côte d'Azur from Nice to medieval Eze or Cannes, Grasse and lovely St. Paul de Vence - each one a jewel to be savored. Shopping: Enjoy searching for silks, leather goods, couture clothing, jewelry and perfume. Dining: Savor delectable bouillabaisse or an airy quiche, accompanied by the perfect wine. Add a tart or pastry for dessert.
Drive along the famous Grand Corniche with its stunning views of Monaco and the Old City; then stroll through this marvelous quarter and its pink Grimaldi Palace. And don't forget the Casino. Explore the wonderful old villages along the Côte d'Azur from Nice to medieval Eze or Cannes, Grasse and lovely St. Paul de Vence - each one a jewel to be savored. Shopping: Enjoy searching for silks, leather goods, couture clothing, jewelry and perfume. Dining: Savor delectable bouillabaisse or an airy quiche, accompanied by the perfect wine. Add a tart or pastry for dessert.
Boarding the ship Insignia of the Oceania family after a long drive through the winding roads along the sea between Nice and into Monte Carlo. Easy access to the ship and we began celebrating our safe arrival.
We are docked across from 007’s famous casino. I keep looking for his famous Mazaratti zooming along the waterfront. To get into the casino you must be “dressed” and carry your passport which they hold until you depart…Dale says he could live on any of these gigantic yachts moored in the harbor and not need one of the fantastic condos on the cliffs above. Eileen suggested living up on top of the hill in Nice next to Elton John’s. Our first activity on arriving "a board" is to have an emergency drill. Don and Eileen modeled the lovely orange outfits.
CANNES, FRANCE OCT 30, 2010By morning, we have arrived at Cannes with a brisk wind and a fantastic sunrise!
As it is so rough, we have decided to stay on board and enjoy the ship not roll with the "tenders"!!! Tomorrow we dock and will be getting off. (Did I ever lie about that!!! more "tenders")
CANNES – Oct 30
The quintessential Côte d'Azur resort town, Cannes has long been a playground for the rich and famous. Its epicenter is La Croisette, a boutique-lined boulevard with a legendary seven-mile beach. While it's easy to spend a day here people-watching, be sure to venture up Susquet Hill and wander the winding streets of the old town. The 12th century Chapel of St. Anne and the eclectic collection of art in the Museum of the Castre will be of interest. The hilltop also affords phenomenal views of Cannes and the Lérins Islands lying just offshore. Shopping: For haute couture fashions, try the designer shops along La Croisette. Antiques are also plentiful. Dining: Seafood is the basis of most local delicacies such as bouillabaisse and grilled fish.
CINQUE TERRE (LA SPEZIA) Oct 31, 2010 – Head out of town and discover the five stunning, colorful towns clinging to the cliffs along the coast. Hike along the trail connecting them or take a boat tour and see them from the water as ancient seafarers did. Go ashore and explore a picturesque town and its castle. Or visit intriguing Portovenere, another colorful town rising above one end of La Spezia's harbor with breathtaking views and the lovely Church of San Pietro. Shopping: Search for fine jewelry, ceramics, leather goods and artwork as well as olive oil and wine. Dining: Enjoy delicious fresh seafood, focaccia, pickled anchovies and a glass of local wine.
Happy Halloween !!! and it is still raining!!!! We are headed toward Livorno in the night during the storm...good grief!
FLORENCE/PISA (LIVORNO) Nov 1, 2010
We are getting off as we are docked today. Still intermittent rain! In fact it started pouring so bad, we cancelled the trip to Florence. Hate to do that as I am sure my shoes were calling me!
FLORENCE/PISA (LIVORNO) Nov 1, 2010 We are getting off as we are docked today. Still intermittent rain! In fact it started pouring so bad, we cancelled the trip to Florence. Hate to do that as I am sure my shoes were calling me!
– Spend a glorious day amidst the fabled architecture of this Renaissance city. See the Duomo with Brunelleschi's dome, the famous baptistry, Michelangelo's magnificent David, the bridge over the Arno and the astonishing Uffizi Gallery. Visit Pisa's superb Campo dei Miracoli and its beautiful cathedral and famed campanile. Or enjoy the Tuscan countryside, Siena and San Gimignano, renowned for its medieval towers. Shopping: Find leather goods, lingerie, gold jewelry, Florentine mosaic, lace, marbled paper items, antiques and fine art. Dining: Savor the prosciutto, pecorino cheese and infinite variety of breads, cakes and salamis. Shopping: Find leather goods, lingerie, gold jewelry, Florentine mosaic, lace, marbled paper items, antiques and fine art. Dining: Savor the prosciutto, pecorino cheese and infinite variety of breads, cakes and salamis.
ROME (CIVITAVECCHIA) Nov 2, 2010Wow! On board Oceania, the days fly by and activities run together…. EAT EAT EAT! It seems we have food available every hour and it is terrific so we are always stopping by for a bite of this or that. Even the room service is great and immediate!!! We gather each evening in the Horizons which is the most forward lounge on the ship. There we share what happened during the day and make decisions of where we will eat that evening.…or not.
Rome is absolutely great. So much has changed and it looks like the city is really booming! Beautiful people dressed in the newest and best! Black and gray are in !!!! Tight skirts, short, short skirts, black patterned tights, ruffles on everything and terrific black boots were worn the most. It was great fun just watching the young interact with each other.
St Peter’s has become a mecca for anyone visiting Rome. There were lines and crowds waiting to get into the Basilica and in the square people crowded together to enjoy the site of such a magnificent church.
The Coliseum has been upgraded and is open for visitors. The lines to get in reach way into the streets. The Forum has doubled in size from the heavily increased archeological work. Rome really is Very Exciting. We found a great little restaurant called Aroma on Via Mercede just off Via Condotti. The owner of the restaurant met us just before the Spanish Steps and helped us with our map. He invited us to lunch at his restaurant and by accident we found the restaurant…They made each of our pasta dishes from scratch…it took us two bottles of wine to get through the two hours but just like in a movie….there we were sitting on the street drinking great chianti and eating fresh pasta! Wow! It was a wonderful day and we all were mighty tired by the time we returned to the ship.
– Spend a day reveling in magnificent monuments, from the ancient Roman Forum and Coliseum to the splendor of St. Peter's Basilica with Michelangelo's Pietà and his breathtaking frescoes in the Sistine Chapel. Or enjoy a drive through the lush farmlands of the Roman countryside to lovely medieval Castelgandolfo. Shopping: Browse through designer boutiques for Italian leather and couture, gorgeous jewelry and antiques.Dining: Enjoy a light café meal in a lively piazza and savor the ambiance.
SORRENTO/CAPRI – Nov 3, 2010
Once you survive the drive along the Amalfi Coast, you realize how precious life really is when you are doing your daily living. The cliffs are so high and the road so narrow! Sorrento and the surrounding area are fantastically beautiful. Homes of famous people are mixed with really special hotels. We wandered all over the town, down little alleys, coffee in rickety chairs outside along the alley, special treats in every little shop.
Pompeii is such an education of the life of the Romans during the years 79AD. It is remarkable that they had a highly developed society that again was forgotten and relearned in the following generations.. The perfectly preserved foods, serving dishes, animals and the people themselves serve to teach us the ways of their lives and show us what they were doing when hit by 20 feet of ash when Mt. Vesuvius erupted. The town of Pompeii has a herd of wild dogs that live in the area. Darcy took a ton of photos of them.
While Jamie practiced using the stepping stones to avoid walking in the river of waste.
Beautiful Capri, with its stunning panoramas, villages, charming piazzas and the Villa San Michele, makes a nice diversion. Visit the ruins at Pompeii, take a cooking lesson in Sorrento or travel to the frenetic city of Naples and learn to make pizzas as the Neapolitans do. Shopping: Browse the shops for designer clothes, filigree and mosaic jewelry and cameos, ceramics and artwork. Dining: Savor the handmade pizza on Capri, fresh seafood with pasta and superb wines.
Pompeii is such an education of the life of the Romans during the years 79AD. It is remarkable that they had a highly developed society that again was forgotten and relearned in the following generations.. The perfectly preserved foods, serving dishes, animals and the people themselves serve to teach us the ways of their lives and show us what they were doing when hit by 20 feet of ash when Mt. Vesuvius erupted. The town of Pompeii has a herd of wild dogs that live in the area. Darcy took a ton of photos of them.
While Jamie practiced using the stepping stones to avoid walking in the river of waste.
Beautiful Capri, with its stunning panoramas, villages, charming piazzas and the Villa San Michele, makes a nice diversion. Visit the ruins at Pompeii, take a cooking lesson in Sorrento or travel to the frenetic city of Naples and learn to make pizzas as the Neapolitans do. Shopping: Browse the shops for designer clothes, filigree and mosaic jewelry and cameos, ceramics and artwork. Dining: Savor the handmade pizza on Capri, fresh seafood with pasta and superb wines.
TAORMINA (SICILY) – Nov 4, 2010
We traveled overnight again to Sicily going through the narrow pass with Italy around 4am. We all got up and watched the passage. You felt as though you could just reach out and touch all the lights of the land on either side. Mt. Etna showed it skirts most of the day with a grand display early in the morning. The hill towns like Taormina look as though you would need ropes to get up to them. We searched everywhere for the Spingola family but to no avail!!
Eileen , Dale and Beth took the “tender” into Naxos. We were having rolling swells as you can see by the short video. (I seem to have trouble downloading the video...still working on it)
We considered not going but felt we would be missing so off we went. Rolling and tossing….walked through the town….drank a cappuccino and ate a cannelloni stuffed with their famous sweet cheese!
We toasted our friends Anita and Geno Petrini! On the return trip to the ship…..OH MY!!!! Rolling with large swells hitting us on the sides of the “tender”. “Sit in the middle please, stay away from the windows.”… We each had to stay seated until the sailors motioned us to come forward and then they tossed us aboard when the tender was closest to the ship! We were very happy to get safely on board. Jamie, Darcy and Don were the smart ones, staying on board and laying around the pool enjoying the sun!
We traveled overnight again to Sicily going through the narrow pass with Italy around 4am. We all got up and watched the passage. You felt as though you could just reach out and touch all the lights of the land on either side. Mt. Etna showed it skirts most of the day with a grand display early in the morning. The hill towns like Taormina look as though you would need ropes to get up to them. We searched everywhere for the Spingola family but to no avail!!
Eileen , Dale and Beth took the “tender” into Naxos. We were having rolling swells as you can see by the short video. (I seem to have trouble downloading the video...still working on it)
We considered not going but felt we would be missing so off we went. Rolling and tossing….walked through the town….drank a cappuccino and ate a cannelloni stuffed with their famous sweet cheese!
Each night we have been going to the forward lounge of the ship to enjoy cocktails prior to dinner. The Italian wines have been full bodied reds and gentle buttery whites. All are delicious. The food has been just great! Dale had a prime rib one of our first nights that filled his plate. He ate every bite. Don tried to get him to share part of it, and was served a “bite”! Every night that prime rib has been offered, the men have ordered it hoping to get a piece as perfect as Dale’s.
Enjoy magnificent panoramic views on the way up to the town, where you can stroll down medieval lanes past stunning palaces. See the famed Greek theater and its fantastic view of Mount Etna. Or take a trip to the volcano itself and get a first-hand look at cones, craters and lava streams from previous eruptions and a fantastic view over the Gulf of Catania. Venture into the countryside and its lovely hill towns, one with a Norman castle built of black lava, and visit beautiful old Catania. Shopping: Find lovely embroidery and traditional painted wood items, pottery and ceramics as souvenirs. Dining: Savor the fresh seafood and pasta along with local wines.
CORFU-Nov 5, 2010
Rolling and pitching all night as we rounded the bottom of Italy and headed out across the Ionian Sea toward Greece. I considered this a moment when heavy drugs are an asset! Once we crossed the Strait, the water calmed and the ship entered the Corfu harbor with the sun shining like every day is a perfect day. Corfu is an old old town safe in a cove with an old giant fort sitting on the hill to protect Greece. We walked to the town through the industrial district….will we never learn that cruise ships don’t dock downtown like they do in Seattle. Dale said he didn’t like the town…well we were in a terrible part of the town. Once we finally got to the “town” it was perfect and wonderful. Little taverna’s with men sitting around having small cups of thick thick coffee were on every corner. Actually this was the first time we could do a little shopping. They boys sat around drinking wine and beer while we went down little alleys to tiny shops that sold tourist souvenirs. Nothing to really purchase, just fun looking. We spent the afternoon sunning in the warm weather.
Immerse yourself in this island of glorious scenery and beaches, serene monasteries, beautiful palaces, traditional mountain towns and Corfu's lovely old Venetian quarter. Or visit the ornate Achilleion Palace, built by Empress Sissi of Austria and filled with dramatic sculptures of the Greek hero Achilles. Shopping: Browse the arcades of the old town for intriguing silver items, jewelry, fishermen's sweaters, sandals and objects made of olive wood. Dining: Enjoy mezes, delicious Greek appetizers, such as stuffed grape leaves or tzatziki with olives and fresh bread. Sample freshly caught grilled fish or a delicious lamb souvlaki, accompanied by a chilled glass of retsina.
Rolling and pitching all night as we rounded the bottom of Italy and headed out across the Ionian Sea toward Greece. I considered this a moment when heavy drugs are an asset! Once we crossed the Strait, the water calmed and the ship entered the Corfu harbor with the sun shining like every day is a perfect day. Corfu is an old old town safe in a cove with an old giant fort sitting on the hill to protect Greece. We walked to the town through the industrial district….will we never learn that cruise ships don’t dock downtown like they do in Seattle. Dale said he didn’t like the town…well we were in a terrible part of the town. Once we finally got to the “town” it was perfect and wonderful. Little taverna’s with men sitting around having small cups of thick thick coffee were on every corner. Actually this was the first time we could do a little shopping. They boys sat around drinking wine and beer while we went down little alleys to tiny shops that sold tourist souvenirs. Nothing to really purchase, just fun looking. We spent the afternoon sunning in the warm weather.Immerse yourself in this island of glorious scenery and beaches, serene monasteries, beautiful palaces, traditional mountain towns and Corfu's lovely old Venetian quarter. Or visit the ornate Achilleion Palace, built by Empress Sissi of Austria and filled with dramatic sculptures of the Greek hero Achilles. Shopping: Browse the arcades of the old town for intriguing silver items, jewelry, fishermen's sweaters, sandals and objects made of olive wood. Dining: Enjoy mezes, delicious Greek appetizers, such as stuffed grape leaves or tzatziki with olives and fresh bread. Sample freshly caught grilled fish or a delicious lamb souvlaki, accompanied by a chilled glass of retsina.
KOTOR – Nov 6, 2010
We traveled all night again going through the Strait of Ontanio with a little bit of roll. However, once we were in the Adriatic along Albania, all was smooth and we moved along. We watched the lights of Albania and wished we could land and explore. Next time!
We turned into the fiords of Montenegro around 5:30am…slowly moving toward Kotor. It looks just like the San Juan Islands without the tall firs. Tall mountains surrounding a small valley with a lovely harbor tucked in the back. As daylight arrived, mist started and fog rolled in…we became surrounded by fog…a quick break in the fog and there were two submarines sitting on the edge of the shore. Good grief! The fog became denser as we entered the harbor. Then as the sun came over the mountains surrounding the valley, the lovely town of Kotor (UNESCO) popped its head up out of the mist. We have moored right in the middle of town! Maybe a 5 minute walk into the center of old town. It is so much like Dubrovnik (UNESCO); a walled city right on the edge of the water with sheer walled mountains behind. The cobble stones are very large with the stonemason’s marks still showing. Since it is Saturday, there was an open market full of flowers, foods and olives of all kinds.
People were shopping and visiting with many of the shoppers carrying lovely baskets to cart their purchases. We are right on the water so Dale had a great time looking at all the yachts and sail boats. We left Kotor around 2:30pm heading toward Dubrovnik. This is the first time of sailing in day light. Everyone was on deck with the band playing and the passengers waving, waving, waving.
Kotor is a beautiful walled medieval city of twisting, pink-paved streets, markets and architecture reflecting Byzantine to Venetian influences. Stroll through the compact old town, admire the impressive walls and tour the imposing St. Tryphon Cathedral consecrated in 1166. Shopping: Take home local lace, weavings, handcrafted wood, paintings and sculpture. Dining: Enjoy traditional smoked ham or lamb cooked in milk, roast squid, mussels and delicious cheeses as well as local wine.
We traveled all night again going through the Strait of Ontanio with a little bit of roll. However, once we were in the Adriatic along Albania, all was smooth and we moved along. We watched the lights of Albania and wished we could land and explore. Next time!
Kotor is a beautiful walled medieval city of twisting, pink-paved streets, markets and architecture reflecting Byzantine to Venetian influences. Stroll through the compact old town, admire the impressive walls and tour the imposing St. Tryphon Cathedral consecrated in 1166. Shopping: Take home local lace, weavings, handcrafted wood, paintings and sculpture. Dining: Enjoy traditional smoked ham or lamb cooked in milk, roast squid, mussels and delicious cheeses as well as local wine.
DUBROVNIK – Nov 6, 7
Nov 7, 2010
Nov 7, 2010
We awoke to a bright shining Dubrovnik(UNESCO) Sunday. Sunny and warm, Dubrovnik was very inviting. Again the famous pharmacy is closed….. (the oldest in Europe and they sell a specialty “rose” cream that is supposed to make a person look younger!! Of course we have never been able to purchase any because they are always CLOSED when we are in town!!). We walked the old town and studied the 1990’s war memorial of the attack on Dubrovnik during their search for independence. Wonderful old town. Jamie and Darcy did their walk on the wall. I focused on the decent from the top of the wall which now has a railing to assist climbers in descending the wall. Still gives me the creeps!!
Enjoy a walk through this famous walled medieval city and its exquisite Venetian monuments. See the Franciscan monastery and explore the Rector's palace and the cathedral. Or explore the countryside with a visit to lovely Cavtat, an enchanting seaside resort that began life as a Greek and then Roman colony. Then visit a local family in a Konavle Valley village and enjoy their hospitality over a traditional welcome of brandy and figs with a serenade by local musicians. Shopping: Browse in the shops filled with hand-woven textiles, lace, peasant blouses and skirts, carved wood and other trinkets. Dining: Savor local grilled meat dishes, wonderful cheese, fresh bread, olives and wine.
KOPER – Nov 8, 2010
After a long run of over 300 nautical miles overnight, we woke to rain and dark clouds. Today is Slovenia, a wonderful country, very Germanic in look. Lake Bled is one of the most beautiful places we have ever been…. and some of my best photographs. Rain Rain Go Away!!! It has poured all day. If Koper, Slovenia is a wonderful place, I did not notice. I found a grocery store and bought pate’s and everyone else bought sweaters, great boots and shoes!!! Jamie and Darcy found a shopping mall and purchased a new suitcase for all her new boots!!!
Originally built on an island surrounded by swampland that was later drained, Koper was known as "Goat's Island" when it was under Venetian rule. Today the once fortified Old Town of Venetian-influenced Koper has retained much of its grand architecture from the 15th to 18th centuries. The Praetor's Palace, a blend of Gothic and Renaissance styles, proudly rises above the gray limestone main square. Nearby the Postojna Caves are the most popular underground attraction in Europe, and the Predjama Castle was carved out of a limestone cliff. Shopping: Buy crystal glassware, delicate items made with bobbin lace, and local wines such as teran. Dining: Savor Slovenian delicacies such as jota, a soup with pickled cabbage; corn porridge; and a variety of dishes made with fresh cod caught in the Adriatic Sea.
After a long run of over 300 nautical miles overnight, we woke to rain and dark clouds. Today is Slovenia, a wonderful country, very Germanic in look. Lake Bled is one of the most beautiful places we have ever been…. and some of my best photographs. Rain Rain Go Away!!! It has poured all day. If Koper, Slovenia is a wonderful place, I did not notice. I found a grocery store and bought pate’s and everyone else bought sweaters, great boots and shoes!!! Jamie and Darcy found a shopping mall and purchased a new suitcase for all her new boots!!!
Originally built on an island surrounded by swampland that was later drained, Koper was known as "Goat's Island" when it was under Venetian rule. Today the once fortified Old Town of Venetian-influenced Koper has retained much of its grand architecture from the 15th to 18th centuries. The Praetor's Palace, a blend of Gothic and Renaissance styles, proudly rises above the gray limestone main square. Nearby the Postojna Caves are the most popular underground attraction in Europe, and the Predjama Castle was carved out of a limestone cliff. Shopping: Buy crystal glassware, delicate items made with bobbin lace, and local wines such as teran. Dining: Savor Slovenian delicacies such as jota, a soup with pickled cabbage; corn porridge; and a variety of dishes made with fresh cod caught in the Adriatic Sea.
VENICE – Nov 9, 10, 11, 2010
Very exciting early morning arrival in Venice. AGAIN, RAIN RAIN GO AWAY!!!!!
It is in the 40’s, so cold and rainy….Each of the 4 times I have been in Venice, I have had cool weather. This is no different. 1:30pm the rain stopped and a bit of warmth and sun peeked out and encouraged us to get out and enjoy Venice. All six of us walked to St. Marks Square. We were warned that the water was three feet deep in the square. On the way the elevated walkways had been set up. We got to walk on them for a short way. By the time we got to St. Mark’s the water had gone down significantly but the walkways were still being used for one side of the square. We all split up and went our own ways to do a little shopping. Dale and I found a darling hotel called Santina with a precious little restaurant called La Cavallera. We stopped for a glass of wine and slowly wound our way back to the ship.
We hate to have the trip end and return to face the realities of everyday living. Fantasy is good!!!
Savor the majestic beauty of this amazing city as you glide along its canals and under its bridges, opulent palazzi and elegant churches lining the route. Discover Venice's secret quarters down narrow alleys opening into spacious campos. Admire the Doge's Palace and St. Mark's Basilica. Visit lovely Burano and the glass factories on Murano. Or enjoy the scenic countryside with its stunning Palladian villas. Shopping: Murano glass, exquisite and unusual jewelry, handmade lace, masks, marbled paper, fine clothing, leather goods, etchings and other artwork are just a sampling of what's available. Dining: Enjoy delicious Adriatic seafood, including shrimp, mussels, eel, crayfish and mullet, or the local specialty - tissue-thin calves' liver slices sautéed with onions. A glass of superb Veneto region wine is a must as well as any dessert or gelato.
